Pulse-Charging Battery Systems
Ossie Callanan’s Free-Energy System
In 2007, Ossie Callanan published a document showing how and why he was getting COP>1 battery charging. Ron Pugh’s system kindly shared in detail above, with careful tuning and running on 24 volt input and 24 volt output operates at COP>10 which is likely to be due to Ron’s skill in building and adjusting, both of which are very good indeed, coupled with the use of many transistors working in parallel and tripled charging diodes to improve their performance. The John Bedini SSG pulse-charging system is very easy to construct and works very well, even with many sulphated batteries which have been discarded as useless. However, most people will not get COP>1 performance from their own SSG build. Ossie explains why this is in the following section which is his Copyright. He says:
I believe I may have this radiant energy system worked out to the point where anyone can build it and when you build all of it, it can provide you with free and continuous energy. There are two sides to the circuit and just having either side is no good, you must have both. One side is the pulse-charger side, and the other is the battery and accumulator-converter side. At present, I am charging batteries at a performance level between COP=2 and COP=10 and battery swapping is not a problem.
First we need to focus on the charger side of the system. Basically, you must build a charger which produces large amounts of radiant energy in the form of radiant pulses. Radiant energy pulses are Back-EMF pulses provided that they have very fast rising edges and falling edges and occur at high frequencies. They are not transistor transients or switching transients! A spark-gap produces classical radiant energy pulses. They are chaotic events but they are radiant energy events nevertheless. Switching a coil on very rapidly using a transistor will produce one radiant energy pulse from the coil’s Back-EMF, but one pulse on its own is no good. You need thousands or better still, millions of those pulses for them to be of any practical use.
John Bedini's Simplified School Girl motor (the “SSG”) only produces a very small amount of radiant energy when you have the base of the transistor tuned so that you get the longest self oscillating pulse train per magnet pass. It is not very efficient as the base-clamping diode wastes this energy, passing it back through the base resistor-bulb circuit but that circuit it is necessary so that you can synchronise the operation and provide a driving force to the passing magnet. Without the base-clamping diode, you get an oscillator and the motor won't turn - catch 22. But still, even when tuned with the base-clamping diode in place, the self-oscillating pulse train is usually at most 3 to 6 pulses which is not very much and so, not much radiant energy is produced. For all those people trying to tune the motor for only one pulse per magnet pass, they are wasting their time and only building a pulse motor and not an efficient radiant energy generator.
The SSG is not a very powerful or good radiant energy generator and apart from being educational, it is really a waste of time unless someone can explain to you how to tune it to get the greatest possible amount of radiant energy from it with a long pulse train, and then tell you what to do with that radiant energy. John Bedini's method of using a bulb in the base-feed circuit is to keep the motor tuned to a particular number of pulses in the pulse train per magnet pass or for the longest pulse train as the motor increases speed, also, the battery's impedance changes the speed as well. The two-strand coil where one coil is used just as the transistor trigger, along with the wasted energy in the base circuit, add to the overall inefficiency and make construction more difficult.
In saying that about the SSG I would like to show you now a very simple and basic pulse oscillator or motor driver circuit that you can build with off the shelf parts, one which will produce very large amounts of radiant energy when adjusted correctly. Here is that circuit:
Do not be fooled by appearances - this is as close to a controlled spark gap circuit as you are going to get and it is extremely efficient in the production of radiant energy! But most importantly, you must place and adjust the reed switch appropriately and properly!!! Take a look at this picture:
As you can see, the trick is to place the reed switch so that it runs along the length of the solenoid coil and so is located in the coil's magnetic field. This couples the coil's magnetic field to the reed switch as well as the magnetic field of the passing rotor magnet. This provides a magnetic feedback and turns the reed switch into an oscillator. So when the magnet passes the reed oscillates with the coil's field and causes very many pulses, typically 20 to 50 pulses per magnet pass. Amazingly, unlike the clamping diodes in the SSG, this is not wasteful. This reed switch oscillation actually reduces the input current. Instead of the reed remaining closed for the whole of the pulse duration, it switches on and off and so, less input power is drawn from the driving battery. I run the motor so that when the coil is energised, the magnet is attracted to the coil. Here is a trace across the charging battery:
The trace above is from a motor that is only drawing 50 milliamps but is charging the battery many times faster than if it were drawing 300 milliamps with a single pulse per magnet pass! But there is more. Take a look at the following picture:
Using a very small and weak magnet, you can now control and adjust the reed switch. This allows you to adjust the switching so that the circuit oscillates continuously but still powers the passing rotor magnet. Below, is the trace across the charging battery and the battery is charging very rapidly although you are still paying for this as the input current will increase but nevertheless, you are really producing a vast amount of radiant energy for what is effectively, very little input current! Also, when you do this, the coils HISS very loudly! Yes, the coils HISS, not with a tone or frequency but with a hissing NOISE.
My prototype motor uses four of these circuit's, positioned 90 degrees apart around the rotor, and all connected in parallel. You can use just one reed switch to switch all four transistors and coils but it is more load and the reed switch does not hold up for very long. In fact, either way, if you use small reed switches, they will get worn and start to stick. I have bought larger reed switches but I am also working on an electronic switching version of this, although that is easier said than done. I have worked on this for a few months now so I have tried very many things and have not managed to match it with electronic switching yet. Limiting the current passing through the reed switch does not necessary increase the length of its operational life, besides which, doing that produces less radiant energy.
Now having shown you all this, we are only half way to a complete radiant energy system which will provide continuous free energy. The above circuit and motor, even though they do provide large amounts of radiant energy, will still only give you a COP equal to, or close to 1 when regularly swapping over between the source battery and the charging battery. For battery swapping to work, you MUST have the second and equally important side to the system. The second side of the system is the radiant energy accumulator-converter.
Before I describe the radiant-energy accumulator-converter, I want to highlight how important it is to build and experiment with the circuit described above. Only after adjusting and watching the input current and how the charging battery charges can you truly see how these radiant energy pulses are affecting the charging battery. In terms of why it works or how it provides so much radiant energy you have to understand that if the reed switch stays closed, which will happen when they get worn and start to stick, with the 9 millihenry crossover choke solenoid coil (bought off the shelf) which I use, the transistor is turned fully on and at virtually it's lowest resistance and so the current draw is about 6 to 8 AMPS for a single coil circuit!!! It seems this is a key requirement for generating these radiant energy pulses with a transistor. You have to switch the transistor fully on at maximum current for the coil and input voltage. This is another thing the SSG does not do well. But yet, in this circuit, when the reed switch is adjusted correctly, you can get the input down to just a few milliamps if you want!
OK, now to the radiant accumulator-converter. The requirement for this appears to be because the charging battery is not very efficient at absorbing all of the radiant energy pulses. John Bedini had related this as being due to impedance matching but I am not sure of this at this stage, but impedance may be a factor. Because the charging battery does not absorb much of the radiant energy by itself, you MUST have an accumulator-converter to absorb and convert the radiant energy for the charging battery to use. Ok, that said, what is a radiant energy accumulator-converter?
A Radiant Energy Accumulator-Converter (“REAC”) is nothing more than a dipole! But the larger the dipole the better! The dipole can be a battery but that is silly when we are already charging a battery. Well in that case, it is a special battery. It is a battery that is mostly composed of potential but little current. The higher the potential the better the accumulation/conversion but some current is still required to be able to pass the energy back and charge the charging battery.
There are a number of traditional dipole's that fit what is needed. There is a simple long and raised wire antenna and ground, but this will not provide enough back current to charge our battery. There is an earth-battery setup, but unless you want to put in the effort and amount of materials to raise the voltage and still have some required current this needs a lot of work and materials. Finally, I found the best compromise to be "old, dead, sulphated lead acid batteries". At this stage of my research the condition of the battery does not really matter as long as it is “dead” and sulphated. As long as they are old and dead so that they can barely light up a 12V 100ma bulb, then they will do just fine. Gee I am glad I never threw away my old dead batteries that kept piling up.
If you go down to a battery recycler or junk yard, you can buy pallet loads of old and dead Uninterruptible Power Supply (“UPS”) batteries for very little cost. When I say pallet load, I mean pallet load. The bigger the bank of these you get the batter. Connect them both in series and parallel so that if they where good, you would get anywhere from 48-120 volts. When connecting in parallel make sure that each 12 volt segment has an approximately even capacity in Amp-Hours. You can put this bank under your house or table or even bury them in the ground. It is no problem as you will never have to do anything to them again (as long as they are sealed). They will NOT keep running down. They are already run down. All you need them for is to use their potential as a dipole and their hidden capacity. The very small amount of current they will provide for the size of the bank due to the crystalline resistance of the sulphation is all that is needed to provide the free energy that the will convert the radiant energy pulses and feed it back into your good battery which is being charged. I believe that these sulphate crystals may indeed be the main component that is doing the radiant energy conversion for us. Now for how to connect up your ‘REAC’. See the following diagram:
You must connect the REAC directly to the charging battery as I have shown above. Amazingly, there is a great voltage different when you measure the voltage directly across the charging battery compared to the voltage measured across the REAC while the reed motor is running. This voltage difference is seen even with thick cables connecting them, but distance does affect it as well. You must have two separate sets of cables. One set going directly from the radiant energy charger to the charging battery and the other set from the charging battery to the REAC. I have run the above setup for over one month now. Below is a picture of the “dead” batteries which I use as an REAC.
Using my good 33 Amp-Hour UPS batteries, I can charge them up from 10 volts to 14 volts in about 6 hours with the radiant energy reed motor running 4 coils drawing only 600ma. I can then swap the source battery with the charging battery and keep doing this until I have both batteries charged in about 24 hours. I have done this very many times and the charging rate appears to be improving over time.
Related: John Bedini Generator
But one thing I want to make clear. If you think that I am somehow just
using the stored energy in the REAC bank, if I do not use my reed motor,
then the charging battery will not charge. If I try replacing the reed
motor with a regular battery charger, the battery will take as long to
charge as a normal battery charger would to charge it. When using the
reed motor, the REAC is converting most of the radiant energy and
providing the energy back to the charging battery. There you have it, a
fully working radiant free energy system.
Enjoy! -- Ossie Callanan